A Critic’s Manfiesto by Meredith Roberts

A Critic’s Manfiesto by Meredith Roberts

            Over the semester we have evaluated and tried our hand at a number of critical writings. I found that while I’m not the best or most esteemed critic at all of the subjects we reviewed, each person has their own original taste and biases to account for in their experience of a certain event. Whether it is a play, concert, restaurant, book reading or another medium of artistic release – the arts require a conversation, a dialogue, about the meaning behind human expression. This conversation is the responsibility of the critic: begin it, enhance it, encourage it - in your own community.

            I reject the claims that a critic must be well established or controversial to have an opinion. The worst review we read, in my opinion, was by the big boss of criticism, the New York Time’s own rMichiko Kakutani. Without bashing her or name calling, I’ll say I think its important that a critic’s words hold value and meaning, and that they communicate with the audience that avidly seeks the review.

            The critic’s influence has an interesting place in today’s wavering economy. As newspapers go online (and out of business), it is still important for people to know what to spend their money on. What is worthy of the little bit of extra cash we have in our wallets, our pockets, or sitting on the floorboard of our cars? The critic should tell us that.

            The most important thing I learned about the role of the critic is the importance of the writer’s willingness to expose their biases. If the critic does this, no opinion is supreme, no artistic work is complete crap or unworthy of any audience at all. Subjectivity and honesty are at the center of the critic’s role. This honesty and the dialogue between art, critic and community are essential – though I wish it could be done without the presence of message boards, which seem to take the focus away from the criticism or the artistic piece and bring the dialogue to a level that is worthy of some criticism itself. 

Doc Chey's

Robin Nevetral, Grady JOUR 5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire

Doc Chey’s Noodle House is one of Athens’ best casual restaurants, located right in the heart of downtown.  The casual style of the pan-Asian restaurant matches perfectly with the pace of this college town.  Doc Chey’s has locations in Georgia, North Carolina and South Carolina.  Their menu varies slightly based on location but overall, many menu items remain the same.  The Athens location is at the corner of East Clayton Street and Jackson.

Lunch and dinner at Doc Chey’s are slightly different.  Upon walking into the modern restaurant at lunch time, customers order their food at the counter, seat themselves and then wait for one of the servers to bring the food.  However, when eating dinner at Doc Chey’s, you walk in and wait to be seated.  Customers order at the table as they would any other sit-down restaurant.

Walking into Doc Chey’s Monday night for dinner, I was excited to see that my friend and I would be seated at one of the taller tables by the windows, a great spot for people watching.  All of the tables in the middle of the restaurant are picnic style, complete with benches you have to awkwardly slide into. 

One of the first things I noticed upon walking into the restaurant was the noise.  The kitchen is open so customers can watch as the chefs prepare their food.  The noise from the kitchen combined with the noise generated from people’s conversations means that if you are looking for a quiet place to eat, Doc Chey’s is not where you should be headed.

The noise, however, does not take away from Doc Chey’s amazing menu selections and freshly prepared entrees made from scratch.  The menu offers several dishes to appeal to varied crowds, including Chinese Lo Mein, Wok Fried Rice and Pad Thai.  Many of the dishes can be prepared with chicken, beef or shrimp as well as tofu and veggies.  Because every dish is made fresh, dishes can be customized to fit the needs and wants of the customer.  The price of a meal at Doc Chey’s is definitely affordable in a college town.  One can easily walk in and get a satisfying meal (plus the complementary orange and fortune cookie brought to the table with the check) for under $10.

The service at Doc Chey’s was remarkable.  The waitress who waited on our party was attentive to our needs and was always nearby with a drink refill when our glasses were empty.  We were brought our food quickly despite the fact that the restaurant was crowded and our server appeared to be waiting on several other tables in addition to ours. 

As an appetizer, I had the Crispy Veggie Spring Rolls.  The veggies are wok-seared and wrapped in a crispy spring roll so thin you can see the vegetables inside.  Upon the first bite, steam pours out of the spring roll.  They are served with a delicious sweet chili sauce that adds a nice kick to the veggie rolls.  They proved to be an excellent entry to the rest of the meal.

For dinner I ordered the General Chey’s with chicken.  It is a dish that features broccoli, onions, and red peppers in a sweet and spicy sauce.  The small pepper symbol on the menu next to the description of the meal indicates that this dish is spicy.  The bright red peppers and broccoli pop out on the plate and add some color to the dish.  I could see the grill marks on the veggies as well as the chicken, and since I love foods prepared on a grill this made me extremely happy.  My plate was steaming when brought to the table but the dish was not so hot that I could not immediately enjoy my meal.  The sweet and spicy sauce was a wonderful aspect to the meal.  It was the kind of sauce that makes one want to lick the plate at the end of the meal (I resisted since I was in public).

The dish is definitely not for those who have a low level of tolerance for spicy foods.  I love spicy foods, and even I was taken aback slightly by the spice.  The vegetables were perfectly prepared.  They were well cooked and added a nice crunch to the dish.  I ate every last bite of my meal (it was that good).

I have eaten at Doc Chey’s many times before, but had always ordered the same dish (Mongolian with chicken – another wonderful dish I would recommend); however, after trying the General Chey’s, I believe I have found a new favorite dish.  It is a dish I will definitely order again.

Agua Linda

Meredith Roberts, Grady JOUR5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire 

While at many restaurants the ever-absent waiter is a bad thing, sometimes you just need to eat, chat, and get your drink refilled without having to carry on a conversation about the weather with a member of the wait staff.  For diners at Agua Linda in Athens, the ever-interrupting waiter is not a problem – not because it is in the restaurant’s customer service philosophy, but because they speak very little English.

This lack of communication is fine for the diner who doesn’t want to play 20 questions before deciding what to order, though it can be troublesome when your dinner partner decides to ask what exactly is in the chimichanga. Luckily, I knew enough to answer her question and alleviate the waiter’s pained face as he tried to remember how to say onions in English.

Agua Linda has two locations in Athens, one on Prince Avenue geared more towards the college crowd: cramped booths, minimal (and outdated) décor, and my favorite: the Atlanta Highway location. The Atlanta Highway location is warm and inviting, with Mexican themed colorful paintings, half-moon shaped booths, and a bathroom with a mosaic tiled sink and fabulously modern faucet. There is a general seating area and a bar area with high top tables and TVs. The ambiance and crowd at the Atlanta Highway location is more sophisticated and family friendly – probably because students are at the Prince location or busting down the doors of Athens’ Mexicali, notorious for its cheap margaritas. There is minimal outdoor seating which is popular on sunny, warm days.

Agua Linda’s drink selection includes a number of flavored margaritas, priced depending on the quality of tequila you choose. Their beer selection also goes beyond the classic Corona, offering Sol, Dos Equis and several American beers. For the budget conscious, I suggest water. You can't beat free.

Agua Linda’s main attraction: the cheese dip. Authenticity is key here – and you can get it with or without jalapeños. For a milder pepper flavor, you can order the Poblano cheese dip for only a quarter more. Unlike cheaper Mexican cheese dips, the queso here doesn’t get a film on the top as it cools or suddenly turn into a jiggly block that breaks tortilla chips at the moment of contact. The menu is vegetarian friendly and open for substitutions. My favorites: the vegetarian fajitas (though these may not be first-date friendly, as they come with three huge plates and suddenly your dinner is taking over the entire table and the awkward rearrangement of drinks and silverware ensues). The fajita filling is in a red tomato sauce base with zucchini, onions, peppers, mushrooms throughout. For the brave at heart: sautéed fresh jalapeños add a kick of heat. The filling can be wrapped in flour or corn tortillas, which come hot, though they don’t seem to be freshly made as at some other Mexican restaurants.

The rice is the typical Mexican orange color and beans come in only one form: refried. They are a strange consistency and kind of lacking in flavor, but my sodium addiction may be to blame here. My dinner guest had a particularly interesting modus operandi for rice eating: dip a chip in some queso, then cover the queso in rice, and ta-da, a culinary masterpiece. I can’t blame her though, it was an interesting texture combination once she convinced me to try it: crunchy tortilla chip, creamy queso and al dente rice.

Other hit entrees include the fajita quesadilla – a tortilla filled with fajita vegetables and chicken, steak or ground beef for the carnivores. Vegetarians can opt to substitute rice for the meat in the quesadilla. If you are splurging (or consider yourself to have queso running through your veins instead of blood), ask for cheese dip to be poured on top. Heaven.

Prices are moderate, with dinner for two usually meeting the mid-thirty dollar range. Of course it depends what you order. The aforementioned wait staff is extremely friendly and accommodating – and never angry if they have to split checks, unlike some local eateries. For larger parties, they do sometimes add gratuity for parties of 6 or more without notification – so keep your eyes open.

Overall, Agua Linda is a casual restaurant (attire ranges from sweat pants to jeans and high heels) where you can go to catch up with friends and eat well. Service is friendly and fast, especially if you are accepting of the language barrier. One word of wisdom: drive carefully when you leave the restaurant. Shortly after signing my check, I saw my waiter running across Atlanta Highway…presumably on his way home, just like me.

            

Raising Cane's

Kelli Hilderbrand, Grady JOUR 5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire

Raising Cane’s on a warm spring afternoon in Athens will satisfy your hunger every time. This mouth-watering chicken finger restaurant has 80 locations throughout the United States and serves only 100 percent premium chicken tenderloins. Conveniently located beside FTX bookstore at 795 Baxter St., the restaurant gives University of Georgia students the choice to swing by the drive-thru or sit in the contemporary dining area to enjoy the chain’s delicious fare. Named after founder Todd Graves’ yellow lab, Raising Cane’s friendly service and clean dining area make this one of the best fast food establishments in Athens.

When sitting in the dining area you are surrounded by paintings, pictures and murals of Athens’ culture. There was a wall dedicated to all the UGA bulldog mascots and another wall devoted to Graves’ Labrador retriever, Raising Cane. Raising Cane’s relaxing atmosphere appeals to both students and families.

Every chicken finger restaurant must have its own signature dipping sauce and Cane’s tangy secret recipe is a perfect accompaniment for chicken finger meals. The sauce’s thick consistency seems to come from a mixture of ketchup, mayonnaise, pepper and garlic powder. Zaxby’s signature Zax Sauce comes close to Cane’s Sauce but the Zax Sauce does not master the right creamy consistency.

On this visit I ordered the “The 3 Finger” meal, which is exactly what it sounds like: three chicken tenders, a handful of crinkle-cut fries, a piece of Texas toast and one serving of Cane’s sauce. When you order one of the four meals it includes a regular sized drink over crushed ice. The restaurant offers a variety of drinks, from the ever- popular freshly brewed sweet tea to national brand soft drinks.

What makes Raising Cane’s quality better than other chicken tender restaurants is the simple menu, which ensures the best quality food, convenience, and swiftness. Cane’s offers four different meal combinations. These include “The Box” (four fingers, coleslaw, Cane’s Sauce, fries, Texas toast), “The 3 Finger,” “The Caniac” (six tenders, coleslaw, extra fries, two Cane’s Sauces, Texas toast) and “The Sandwich” (three fingers on a Kaiser roll, fries, Cane’s Sauce). There is also a children’s meal available.

The fresh, never frozen chicken tenders are crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. According to the Raising Cane’s website, the tenders are marinated for 24 hours, allowing the marinade to seep inside and keep the chicken moist and juicy. Each tender measures about the length of an iPod and the crispiness will make you crunch so loud that the other customers will envy your tenders.

Cane’s crinkle-cut French fries are made from Grade-A extra-long Idaho potatoes and are fried leaving them a perfect shade of gold. These french fries are better than what might be found at Zaxby’s because Cane’s fries do not have heavy seasoning. In my Cane’s meal, just the right amount of fries was delivered. The texture is perfect for grabbing and dipping them into your favorite sauces such as honey mustard, Cane’s sauce or ketchup.

The best item in the “The 3 Finger” meal is the buttery garlic Texas toast. This light and fluffy piece of bread contains seeds on the outer rim and is placed on the grill, giving it a hint of crunch. With its one and a half inch thickness, this Texas toast not only satisfies your hunger pangs but also leaves you wanting another piece. Zaxby’s Texas toast is no match for Cane’s because Zaxby’s bread does not feature that garlic buttery taste.

After a big game or before class, Raising Cane’s crispy and crunchy chicken tenders are ideal for that quick and convenient meal. Not only will you walk away with a full stomach, but you will also leave Raising Cane’s with a taste of Athens culture.

www.raisingcanes.com

Just Pho and More

Diane Park, Grady JOUR5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire  

Flurries hit Athens in April, and there was one thing on my mind: Phở (pronounced FUH). That sizzling hot, brothy, traditional Vietnamese soup was just what I needed to keep warm. I headed down Baxter Street in search for Just Pho and More to fill my craving.

I was a little puzzled. If it’s “Just Pho” then why do they have “and More?” Because it’s away in the corner of a rundown shopping center next to a Uniforms 911 and a Rite Aid, I didn’t expect a fivestar, or even a threestar restaurant here. A mass of 7-foot, dying houseplants greeted me on the sidewalk, and even more said hello as I entered the restaurant. It was obvious from the oil paintings unevenly strung across the nude walls, the random piano and the lifeless, semi-filled beverage cooler awkwardly placed by the register that the décor was not a priority for the restaurant. I only hoped the food was. Beside its appearance, this shabby corner turned out to be a pleasant surprise. 

With half the menu offering 15 different pho bowls and the other half an assortment of Rice (Com) and Vermicelli (Bún) dishes as well as a good selection of Vietnamese drinks, the name made a little more sense.

Just Pho’s appetizer menu was fuss-free with only two choices: egg rolls (meaty or vegetarian) or spring rolls (meaty or vegetarian), a steal at $2.95-3.50 for two rolls. I ordered the meaty spring rolls (Gỏi Cuốn) that were perfectly hand-rolled with bean sprouts, rice vermicelli, lettuce, pork and three pieces of shrimp that peeked through the translucent rice paper. The pork seemed to get lost in the sea of vermicelli, leaving no traces of its existence on my palate. Overall, it was in dire need of seasoning as it proved bland and tasteless without the light brown peanut sauce. The presentation was somewhat notable as they placed the spring rolls diagonal on a white, rectangular plate, alongside the small peanut sauce bowl and a sprig of mint for garnish (served merely as decoration rather than for taste or aroma).

A plate of fresh bean sprouts, cilantro, jalapeños, basil stems and limes were set down, a standard and necessity, before the main course arrived. Within minutes my #14 Phở Tai Gau, which consisted of thinly sliced, rare eye beef rounds and well-done brisket, was placed in front of me. An air of steam rose from the scorching hot bowl, massive in size even though I opted for the regular bowl ($6.95), not imagining how immense the large bowls ($8.50) might be. It was a hot tub, bubbling with freshly chopped scallions and cilantro that covered the entire surface, with a ring of thinly sliced onions to top off the trio. With a little bit of Sriracha sauce (Thai-style hot sauce), a whirl of Hoisin sauce (Chinese suckling pig sauce – a lot tastier than it sounds, I promise), a handful of bean sprouts and basil leaves and a healthy squeeze of lime, I was ready to dive in. The silky chicken broth ran down my throat and filled my stomach with a comforting warmness. Even though I wished there were more noodles, this soup hit the spot. 

With a wait time of 5-8 minutes, service was quick and simple, just like the food. (The student waiter probably said five words to me). It was an unpretentious restaurant, offering prices and portions to match the penny-pinching lifestyle of most college students, not to mention being the perfect remedy for hangovers. Maybe I’ll try the egg rolls instead of the spring rolls next time, but one thing’s for certain, I wouldn’t wait for another snow day to come around to revisit Just Pho.

 

The Grit: The Veggie Tale of The Non-Vegetarian

Karla Misjan, Grady JOUR5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire

I am most definitely not a vegetarian and about the farthest cry from a vegan one could ever imagine. However, for a late Sunday night dinner, I decided to venture into unknown territory and eat at The Grit.

The Grit is a self-declared “Athens’ landmark of loveable food,” and they have made a believer out of me—their food is truly loveable.

Serving up entirely vegetarian and partially vegan cuisine, their menu is quite extensive and also appealing (even to meat-lovers such as myself). Offering a cultural array of Indian, Italian, Mexican and Middle Eastern fare, diners are sure to find something that will tickle their taste buds. The only hard part: actually making a selection.

Diners beware: this restaurant is anything but ordinary. Their menu may intimidate even most knowledgeable foodies with some of their obscure ingredients. I mean, what in the world is tabouli or bulgur anyway?! But have no fear, the servers know what’s up. My server was more than happy to make a few suggestions considering my ineptness and guide me to vegetarian dining bliss.

Walking into the restaurant a little after 9p.m., I was greeted by a merry hostess who then sat my party of two in the back room. Business looked like it was winding down (normal per a Sunday evening), yet the servers were still kicked into high-gear, attending promptly to their tables.

The restaurant immediately gave off a homey, alternative vibe. Having previously thought the restaurant was on the upscale side, I was pleasantly surprised at the diner-esque atmosphere and overly thrilled with the diner-esque prices. $26 bought an appetizer, two entrees and a dessert, not even The Last Resort can come close to that awesomeness.

While the menu is completely stacked with entrée choices, I have to say that the appetizer list paled in comparison. The mere six appetizers offered looked considerably normal next to the rest of the menu: Loaded Nachos, Chips & Cheese Dip and the Hummus Side. Yawn. We opted for the special of the day, Spinach & Artichoke Dip—which wasn’t exactly lightyears more exciting, yet I was confident we made a good choice.

A Spinach & Artichoke Dip at any other restaurant would leave you feeling stuffed, guilty and probably send you running to the gym, but not The Grit’s. The dip was a light mixture with a cheesy kick accompanied by store-bought tortilla chips, which was the only disappointment.

Giving us plenty of time to enjoy our appetizer, our server then came and took our orders. While the dishes seemed very similar, I was torn between the Stir Fry, which included assorted vegetables sautéed in homemade teriyaki sauce served over brown rice or noodles, or the Noodle Bowl of The Day, including seared seitan, broccoli, carrots, button mushrooms and canton noodles in a lo-mein sauce. I knew I sounded silly asking my guru-server which dish was better, but he honestly replied that while the Stir Fry is one of their more popular dishes, the Noodle Bowl would be a better choice for the evening. The Noodle Bowl of the Day it was.

My dining accomplice made up for my indecisiveness in nailing down her order, the Mid-E Platter, a sampling of hummus, falafel, and tabouli served with lemon-tahini dressing, pita points, and assorted raw vegetables.

While we waited for our entrees, we enjoyed the contemporary artwork that was dispersed across the walls and sipped Diet Cokes (the old-fashioned kind out of bottles!). The eccentric atmosphere alone made for great conversation until the entrees arrived and conversation ceased as we immediately started digging in.

The Noodle Bowl of the Day was bangin’ with flavor. Period. The best part of the dish though, was the seitan. Seitan?! Is there a devil lurking in my noodles?! Ha, no. Our server kindly informed me that this substance was indeed, wheat gluten or “wheat meat”. The seitan had a unique texture unlike that of tofu and was seasoned to perfection. The thick noodles and button mushrooms were equally as savory and made the dish an instant hit in my book. Too bad this wasn’t a permanent feature on the menu.

The Mid-E Platter arrived with a face (yes, a face) made out of vegetables in the hummus. It was nice to see that this restaurant even had a sense of humor in its food, not taking themselves too seriously. The hummus was the standout of the plate. Fresh and not oily, it had the perfect mixture of lemon and pepper. As a newcomer to falafels, I had high expectations, but the bland fried bean blobs were less than appetizing. Finally, I discovered the tabouli to be very similar to couscous, which was light and delicious, a dish I will undoubtedly order again.

My favorite time arrived: dessert time. Only after coercing my accomplice to indulge with me, we walked to the display case to choose our victim. With each dessert calling my name, we elected for our server to make some suggestions once again. The most popular is the Vegan Chocolate Death, our server told us. Going against the grain, we chose the Vegan Mixed Berry Pie.

Looking like a granola bar in pie-form, I was skeptical that this dessert could taste remotely delicious…especially due to its vegan nature (i.e. no eggs, milk or real sugar). Yet, this piece of pie was a taste bud anomaly, tasting exactly, if not better, than an Entenmann’s Danish. It was the cherry atop a great meal.

All I have to say is, do yourself a favor and grab a bite, or ten, at The Grit. You can’t afford not to. Literally. Not in this economy.

www.thegrit.com

Taqueria Los Hermanos

John McCurdy, Grady JOUR5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire

In today’s mainstream culinary world, one in which a dish with a side of salsa can be labeled “South of the Border,” authentic and creative Mexican food like that of Taquería Los Hermanos in Lilburn, Georgia stands apart.

The expectedly casual cantina-like setting is familiar, and yes, the complimentary chips and salsa typical of the myriad Tex-Mex chains are present. Heck, you can even get your house salad (excuse me, “ensalada de la casa”) made with iceburg lettuce. But the offerings stretch way beyond those that simply placate an American’s palate.

It started with the guacamole. If you know this dip as green-colored mayonnaise, you’re in for a shock – there are chunks of fresh avocado in here, finely diced red onion, and just the right amounts of cilantro and lime flavor. The chips weren’t anything special, but my napkin would have worked as a vehicle for this sublime concoction.

And heck, if you’re not one for guac, the cheese dip came out piping hot and very flavorful, and even the free salsa was tasty, if a bit watery.

The entrees that came to my table of four were varied. My mother got the vegetarian California quesadilla, which she said was remarkably rich for an item with no meat. And she meant that in a good way; this is not a woman who is easily satisfied.

Included in the California were three varieties of bell pepper, zucchini, and cucumber. The rice and refried black bean sides that came with it expanded the spectrum of both tastes and colors on the plate.

My father got the “Burrito de Lujo,” which was the typical rolled tortilla dish, but with luxurious (there’s the “lujo”) ingredients like shredded pork and tomatillos.

The old man didn’t rave about the spiciness (he’s a total wimp for it, though) and claimed the asada (barbecued) meat was “nothing to write home about.” But in all, he was very pleased, because, as he put it, it was a very “balanced” dish with its sides of lightly seasoned rice and pico de gallo.

My sister Katie ordered one soft shell beef taco and one soft shell chicken taco. What she was most impressed with was how different the two were.

The beef was fairly standard at a glance: The seasoned meat was adorned with the usual lettuce, diced tomato, shredded cheese and sour cream. However, Kate claimed it was clearly of “higher quality” than what might be found at a chain, as the flavors were more distinct and refined.

The chicken version contained lightly breaded strips of meat with lettuce, tomato, and…what’s that? A light honey Dijon?

Sure enough. Not traditional, but Katie claimed that it suited the item perfectly.

But honestly, no matter how impressed my family members were, I felt bad they missed out on what I ordered – three of the fabled Los Hermanos fish tacos.

My trio of soft tortillas filled with fresh tilapia lightly breaded and fried, sautéed onions and peppers, and a ridiculously delicious cilantro tartar sauce were way too good to share, even with kin. Besides, I’m pretty protective when it comes to my dinner plate.

At times, the spices in the sauce almost overpowered the delicate fish flavors, but in general, the components of these works made quite the harmonious whole. I will not go back to this place without getting one of these; I’d only not recommend these to a non-seafood person.

That being said, I would most certainly recommend the restaurant overall; I mean, even if all you wanted was tacos, you could probably find something you like among their nine varieties.

The other entrees on the menu aren’t the combo platters you’re used to seeing at Frontera, but instead simultaneously traditional and inventive ethnic dishes, many involving shrimp and fresh vegetables (like the quesadilla con camarones and chiles rellenos).

Of course, if you want the regular sizzling plate of fajitas, you can get that too, and with any number of main ingredients.

I get the feeling that a good majority of the crowd that comes into Taquería Los Hermanos does want to eat what they’re comfortable with, like said fajitas or taco salads. But hey, something’s got this soccer-mom and dad group coming here instead of Rio Bravo, whether it’s the good service, the decent beer list, or (in the words of my mother) the “perfect” margaritas.

I say everyone who comes through the doors can get whatever they like, because by visiting this place, they are not only supporting a superior Mexican joint by getting their Tex-Mex favorites, they’re also allowing wonderfully unique dishes (like my fish tacos) to remain available.

www.taquerialoshermanos.com

Brunch at Joseph's

Gage Henry, Grady JOUR5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire

Good food can be the perfect conversation killer. This is one thing I learned during my weekend getaway to Charleston, SC, where I participated in the 32nd annual Cooper Bridge Run, along with around 40,000 other runners and walkers-- soon to be hungry customers of the city's many local eateries.

Joseph's Restaurant, owned and operated by the local Passarini family, is a brunch and lunch cafe set among the spiky palm trees and grandiose southern mansions of downtown Meeting Street. Featured on Food Network's “$40 a Day” with Rachel Ray, this was the hands down suggestion from our weekend hosts.

Averaging around $10 a dish (tip included), they referred to Joseph's brunch as a delicacy worth waking up for, and the sidewalk's overflow of people waiting for an open table proved this was common knowledge.

The staff handled this hubbub with unblinking professionalism, cordiality and just a dash of militance. Waitresses sought out empty coffee cups for refills, asked how the food tasted and were always ready to lend their advice to the fickle hearted. The hostess impatiently barked out party names with pursed lips, a friendly push to ensure a steady flow of satisfied diners-- rushed into their restaurant of choice, but never out.

The abundant brunch menu is a pill for anyone who is indecisive. My eyes darted from the sweet potato pancakes slathered with pecan butter, to the French-toasted French bread dusted with cinnamon and sugar, to the fluffy omelets stuffed with meaty concoctions-- and don't even get me started on the choice of side.

Solution: allow the roasted green and red pepper omelet to replenish my 6.2 miles worth of spent energy, and leave the pancakes and French toast for my four friends to order.

After ten minutes of sipping full-bodied coffee and doodling with crayons on the paper table covering-- an endearing element that relieved the restaurant's formal tension--, the waitress had our food on the table, and thus began the silence of feasting.

I was pleased to see my omelet took up half my plate, while the roasted breakfast potatoes filled the other, also accompanied by a pair of pineapple and cantaloupe slices. The spongy, golden and half-moon yolk bulged with peppers, onions and cheddar cheese, and demanded more than a cursory glance before diving in. The potatoes were a mushy conglomerate of spices and trace vegetables, soaked in a temperate, but zesty sauce with enough punch to heat the tongue without scalding.

I've always found great victory in making the perfect omelet, but Joseph's masterpiece had me eating my own humble pie-- and savoring it. Its contents were a scrumptious mess, and well proportioned with crunchy peppers, juicy sausage and sautéed onions, held together with creamy cheddar cheese. It was the most fun I've had clearing my sinuses.

The restaurant's every interim was alloyed with some kind of entertainment. For those waiting on a table, there was the Charleston's multifarious cityscape to admire, or Battery Park-- where the first shots on Fort Sumter began the Civil War. For customers waiting on food, options range from scribbling on the table, perusing the intricate flower paintings on the wall-- fitting for a blossoming business-- or listening to the live, clarinet and guitar duo deliver jazzy melodies. Rather than waiting, it felt as if I were being treated.

I proceeded through my meal with childhood instincts and an unwillingness to share, huddled around my plate like a prisoner guarding his dinner from a table of inmates. For these brief dining moments, Joseph’s brought out the worst in me, in the best possible way. It wasn't until our plates were cleaned did conversation spark again, this time about our own personal, food-induced hypnoses.

www.josephsofcharleston.com

The Oceanaire Seafood Room

Judy Woods, Grady JOUR5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire

If you’re planning a date night at Oceanaire (more formally known as The Oceanaire Seafood Room), make sure to bring your appetite and your wallet. The oversized menu (and I don’t just mean number of food options, this sucker is almost a foot and a half tall) provides a plethora of sumptuous seafood dishes that are sure to please even the pickiest of palates. But the steep price tag might make you and your bank account want to jump overboard

The opulent décor of this upscale eatery is set to look like a luxury ocean liner (think QE II with a 1950s feel). It’s hard to miss the extravagance that surrounds you as you take in the plush furnishings. But walking into the luxuriously spacious dining room, decorations aren’t necessarily the first thing that one might notice, but rather the well-appointed staff. Each staff member is expertly dressed in a crisp, white jacket, long white apron and sharply tailored black slacks.

The entire restaurant is staged with square, wooden tables, all generously spaced around the center of the room, covered with soft, cream-colored linen tablecloths. And, for more intimate gatherings, the walls are lined with comfortable, brown-leather, high-bench rounded booths.

Having a rather retro look, this restaurant has an extravagance that screams “expensive.”

But the aroma that tickles your taste buds is enough to make you forget the steep price tag – for a little while, anyway. With such tasty fare as broiled shrimp scampi, fried oyster Po’ boy sandwiches, pepper seared Ahi tuna fillets and sweet and sour Mahi Mahi, it’s easy to see why this place has been called the “luxury liner” of seafood restaurants by some of Atlanta’s self-proclaimed foodies.

If appetizers are of utmost importance, you'll find the essential shrimp cocktail – along with crab cakes, steamed mussels and eastern shore crab soup. Or, if you’re looking to the lighter side of the menu, there are several salad options to fulfill your daily veggie intake; including iceberg lettuce wedge, Caesar salad, or sliced tomato and red onion salad.

“Ultra-Fresh seafood” is the restaurant’s slogan of choice. According to Oceanaire’s website, that means, “the tuna you order tonight may well have been swimming yesterday afternoon.” I have to say after tasting several menu items the cuisine definitely lives up to the hype.

Being the traditional southern girl that I am, I had to sample one of my favorites - good ole’ fashioned fish & chips. I was not disappointed. The tender, flaky fish surrounded by the extra-crispy outer coating quickly made me realize that this was no Long John Silver’s fare I was noshing on. The sweet scent of thinly sliced homemade French fries, paired with the sizzling Pacific-caught cod had me salivating before the plate even hit the table.

I chose to finish off my high-sea feast with a little something to tantalize my sweet tooth. The menu offers several options that are sure to tempt anyone’s taste buds, including lemon ice box cake, cherry brown betty and my personal favorite, key lime pie. The thick, tangy lime filling mounded with a huge dollop of real whipped cream sent me into a sugary heaven.

All in all, Oceanaire does not disappoint with its super-fresh seafood selections, gorgeous atmosphere and chef-prepared cuisine. But if you’re looking to keep your pocket book in check, you probably want to think twice before stepping inside this seafood dreamland.

Though the provisions are clearly out of this world, the hefty bill might just make you lose your lunch. The least expensive items start around $30 and go as high as $70, that’s not including appetizers and dessert. So, if pennies count, you may want to start saving your change for this little outing.

www.theoceanaire.com

Taqueria del Sol

By Christopher Taylor
After a Couple visits to Taqueria del Sol, the defining quality I've come to find about the place is a burning desire to do things well. Teh place isn't burdened with restaurant service or culinary tradition, but it isn't opposed to the meither. The menu, service and layout all demonstrate a unique approach to dining and come together for a thoroughly enjoyable whole.

The ordering method is a cross between fast food and traditional sit-down takeout. You wait in line with your own copy of the menu in hand, go up to the single cashier, order and pay up front. This process has been well thought-out for the sake of the diners, I think; I often find myself not really feeling like paying for food after I've eaten it. I like this system.


It doesn't share the fast food method of delivery; there's no standing around awkwardly next to the counter waiting to be handed a paper bag with plastic forks. After ordering, you fill your own drink but then you find a place to sit (there are indoor, bar and patio options), and wait for your food to be brought to you, as it would in a traditional sit-down place.

The menu is impressively diverse also; the tacos and enchiladas have several choices of meat, and for each enchilada vresion several sauce options as well. To avoid difficulties with substitions, there are no combos or platters. Everything is served a la carte, allowing diners to have exactly what they want together on their plates.

The brisket taco combines the simplicity of the flour tortilla, fresh tomato and pepper of the pico de gallo, and the tenderness of the traditional barbecued beef. This is a taco that puts up no fight in the eating of it, although it may leave a few drips of sauce on your chin to remember it by.

The cheese enchilada with beef and red chili is also and impressive though simple combination. It's an excellent choice for those who want to regulate their mouthfuls by deciding just how much chili and beef to mix with just how much tortilla and cheese. It's beautifully presented as well; the wide cream platter with the neatly folded enchilada, drizzled with the red sauche looks almost like a brush covered in oily auburn paint, fresh off the canvas.

The starters were the only area that perhaps left something to be desired. The salsas, while made, are nothing to write home about. The red sauce is neither very hot or distinct; it seems to have been made with almost too many different spices; the flavors get muddied along the way. The brown sauce suffers from similar problems. It's almost just a chunkier version of the red. The cheese dip is well done; it kept just the right consistency for the duration of the meal. I don't enjoy Monterey Jack, so I still wasn't completely thrilled. This is a small compalint, however, for an otherwise brilliantly varied and thoughtful menu.

If it's nothing else, Taqueria del Sol is a restaurant that does things its way and sticks to them. It's clear that each and every choice, from design to execution, was carefully considered in favor of the best experience for both all customers and each customer as an individual. I can't wait to go back and try something new.

Finding "Carolina" Barbecue In Georgia

By: Casey Childers

In my 27 years, I had never lived outside of Western North Carolina until last July when I hit the road to Athens. Although Georgia is not really all that different from North Carolina in many things, there is one thing I miss about home: barbecue.
So, when I heard that Five Star Day Café in Athens advertised “Carolina” barbecue, I was skeptical. I am not picky about food, but I am a snob when it comes to barbecue.
In North Carolina, there are two types of barbecue, Eastern style, with a vinegar base and Western style, with a tomato base. Barbecue can be chicken, beef or pork, sliced, chopped or whole. There’s a whole history about political and economic disparages between Eastern and Western North Carolina that briefly raised its head during the governor’s race last year, but usually the regional tension is restricted to barbecue. There are two things you must pledge an allegiance to in North Carolina: barbecue type and basketball team, Duke or Carolina.
The Western style barbecue was thickly chopped tomato-based pork barbecue on a sesame seed bun. The sauce was thick and the pork was juicy. The sauce was heavy on pepper and a little spicier than what I’m used to. The barbecue, overall, was close enough that if I’m feeling a little homesick with a craving, I’ll make sure I get there.
With no one in the place, I received my food in less than 10 minutes and the service was excellent. The plate was huge covered with portions that would make a trained dietitian cringe. Meals with a drink are about $10.
Overall, Five Star Day Café lives up to the boast of serving “gourmet soul” food as stated in their menus. Although the “Carolina” barbecue is not exactly what I would get at home, it quells my craving until my next trip North on Interstate 85.

Want to learn more? Check out http://www.fivestardaycafe.com/

(I have a long time to) Mellow Mushroom

If you have a long time to kill, a longing for good sandwiches or pizza and value an interesting atmosphere over comfort, then Mellow Mushroom might be your new favorite restaurant. Just make sure you have someone interesting to talk to.
Did I mention a long time to kill? I ordered a whole chicken and cheese sandwich, which doesn’t sound complicated, but it must have been because it took quite a while. I’m pretty sure they could have killed six chickens, de-feathered, cleaned and grilled them for my sandwich by the time they brought it out. Mushrooms, peppers, provolone, grilled chicken and onions on a toasted bun. No ingredient was lacking. It was difficult to fit my large hands around the sandwich, but I was afraid to cut it for fear of accidentally cutting and eating the foil too.
It was a good sandwich, the bread was a little dry but hey! Did I mention you have to have some time to kill?I arrived at Mellow Mushroom about 7:30 p.m. and, although it was visibly dinner time there was no crazy hustle and bustle. We ordered as soon as we were asked if we would like anything, about 10 minutes after we sat down. Then we waited. And waited. At 8:15 p.m. our food came out and we decided we wanted to order a beer.
Just a beer. Nothing fancy. But you would think they had to go out back and harvest some barley, roll it into the brewery they don’t have, add hops three different times and then serve some beer. 8:35 p.m. the waitress returns with one beer and tells me that she’s sorry, but we’re all out of that type of beer.
Are you serious, Mellow Mushroom?

www.mellowmushroom.com