Just Pho and More

Diane Park, Grady JOUR5590 Food Critic Extraordinaire  

Flurries hit Athens in April, and there was one thing on my mind: Phở (pronounced FUH). That sizzling hot, brothy, traditional Vietnamese soup was just what I needed to keep warm. I headed down Baxter Street in search for Just Pho and More to fill my craving.

I was a little puzzled. If it’s “Just Pho” then why do they have “and More?” Because it’s away in the corner of a rundown shopping center next to a Uniforms 911 and a Rite Aid, I didn’t expect a fivestar, or even a threestar restaurant here. A mass of 7-foot, dying houseplants greeted me on the sidewalk, and even more said hello as I entered the restaurant. It was obvious from the oil paintings unevenly strung across the nude walls, the random piano and the lifeless, semi-filled beverage cooler awkwardly placed by the register that the décor was not a priority for the restaurant. I only hoped the food was. Beside its appearance, this shabby corner turned out to be a pleasant surprise. 

With half the menu offering 15 different pho bowls and the other half an assortment of Rice (Com) and Vermicelli (Bún) dishes as well as a good selection of Vietnamese drinks, the name made a little more sense.

Just Pho’s appetizer menu was fuss-free with only two choices: egg rolls (meaty or vegetarian) or spring rolls (meaty or vegetarian), a steal at $2.95-3.50 for two rolls. I ordered the meaty spring rolls (Gỏi Cuốn) that were perfectly hand-rolled with bean sprouts, rice vermicelli, lettuce, pork and three pieces of shrimp that peeked through the translucent rice paper. The pork seemed to get lost in the sea of vermicelli, leaving no traces of its existence on my palate. Overall, it was in dire need of seasoning as it proved bland and tasteless without the light brown peanut sauce. The presentation was somewhat notable as they placed the spring rolls diagonal on a white, rectangular plate, alongside the small peanut sauce bowl and a sprig of mint for garnish (served merely as decoration rather than for taste or aroma).

A plate of fresh bean sprouts, cilantro, jalapeños, basil stems and limes were set down, a standard and necessity, before the main course arrived. Within minutes my #14 Phở Tai Gau, which consisted of thinly sliced, rare eye beef rounds and well-done brisket, was placed in front of me. An air of steam rose from the scorching hot bowl, massive in size even though I opted for the regular bowl ($6.95), not imagining how immense the large bowls ($8.50) might be. It was a hot tub, bubbling with freshly chopped scallions and cilantro that covered the entire surface, with a ring of thinly sliced onions to top off the trio. With a little bit of Sriracha sauce (Thai-style hot sauce), a whirl of Hoisin sauce (Chinese suckling pig sauce – a lot tastier than it sounds, I promise), a handful of bean sprouts and basil leaves and a healthy squeeze of lime, I was ready to dive in. The silky chicken broth ran down my throat and filled my stomach with a comforting warmness. Even though I wished there were more noodles, this soup hit the spot. 

With a wait time of 5-8 minutes, service was quick and simple, just like the food. (The student waiter probably said five words to me). It was an unpretentious restaurant, offering prices and portions to match the penny-pinching lifestyle of most college students, not to mention being the perfect remedy for hangovers. Maybe I’ll try the egg rolls instead of the spring rolls next time, but one thing’s for certain, I wouldn’t wait for another snow day to come around to revisit Just Pho.